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Tuesday, June 02, 2026
By Mike Moats Photography

Here is the finished image. I liked the little vine that was growing around the stem and through the top of the flowers. 

Fuji X-T30 MKll Tamron 18-300
f/32 @ 1/125sec, ISO2000

Printed background behind the flower.

Creative processing with Smart Photo Editor.

Original out of the camera.

Save yourself some time learning flower photography by joining my Flower Photography Club online. Learn from the experts. FLOWER PHOTO CLUB - Mike Moats - Award Winning Macro Photographer

 
Sunday, May 31, 2026
By Michael G Moats

In the year 2001 I decided to purchase some camera equipment and go out into nature and have some fun.

It was November when I receive my used Nikon N80 film camera along with a tripod, some lenses all bought used from eBay.

It was a Saturday morning before daybreak when I drove out to a local park to capture my first images with my camera gear.

I got there before the sun came over the horizon as my thought was to shoot the sunrise.

I had no idea what I was doing but guess I would figure it out as I go.

As I got out of my car in the parking lot I looked to the east and saw this tree with these amazing layers of colors behind the tree. 

The colors were produced by a storm that was coming in from the west threatening to rain on my first outing with my camera.

I set up my tripod and camera and clicked a couple frames. Have no idea what my setting were on that shot, but got lucky.

When I got the slides back from the processing, I was amazed at what I had capture with the very first click of my shutter.

Little did I know on that day that within a few years I would start a successful photography business that has lasted for 21 years.

Here is my very first image in 2001.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Saturday, May 30, 2026
By Mike Moats Photography

After a few years photography landscapes, I found my calling, passion, and career as a macro photographer. It wasn’t my intentions to shoot macro as my interest in my new hobby in the beginning was to be a landscape photographer. I had studied all the great landscape images that were printed on the pages of “Outdoor Photographer” and decided that was what I wanted to shoot. With my limited time and budget to travel to the national parks where the best landscapes were, and only two weeks a year of vacation, it didn’t satisfy my desire and left me with fifty weeks of mundane landscape opportunities in the northern suburbs of Detroit. I wanted to get outdoors and shoot something, so I decided to look into macro, which gave me more subject matter though out the year during the times I wasn’t able to travel. It didn’t take long before I realized how much fun macro was with all the great artwork that Mother Nature provided to photograph. I began to realize all of the benefits of being a macro photographer, and have since dedicated all of my time to macro, and no longer shoot landscapes.

You don’t have to travel far as macro subjects are everywhere. You can find it at the local parks, in your own yard, and even shoot inside your home. I have four great parks within twenty minutes of my home, and probably seventy percent of my best images are photographed in those parks. I also have a few of my best selling images that were shot in my backyard. Most people have flower gardens in their yard, so they can walk outside their home and shoot. This close convenience saves on the high cost of fuel and wear and tear on our vehicles, and saves on time as we can shoot when we just have an hour or two available. In the winter here in Michigan I do most of my shooting indoors, so I buy flower from the local florist, go online to websites that sell feathers, mounted butterflies, sea shells, slab agates, which all can be arranged into artistic compositions

You can shoot with just one lens.  You don’t need a whole arsenal of lenses for macro photography, I got by with one lens for seven years before I added on to my stable of lenses. I shot for those first seven years using a macro lens in the 180mm range. If you are starting out as a macro photographer and limited on funds, a mid range focal length lens like the Tamron 90mm will work great for all purposes. If you plan to shoot live subjects such as butterflies, dragonflies, and other small critters that will flee as you approach to close, go with the longer focal length lens like Tamron’s 180mm. If you like to handhold your camera, try the light and fast shooting Tamron 60mm macro lens. For macro photography plan on shooting the majority of your shots with your camera mounted on a good study tripod and ballhead.

Subject matter changes every month. With the four seasons, we have an ever-changing environment month by month and sometimes day by day. I can revisit the same areas every couple weeks and find new subjects. It’s a constant cycle evolving from life to death. Depending on where you live, your seasons may vary and the environment may be totally different from the rest of the country. Learn about the subjects and life cycles of the plants and critters in your area, and make sure you are in the field when subjects come into season.

Shoot any time of day.  Landscape and wildlife photographers have limited control over lighting and tend to shoot early morning and late evening which offers the best light. Because of the small subjects macro photographers work with, we have the ability to control our light by using diffusers and reflectors, so we can shoot any time of the day. I carry a 12” diffuser which I use to control harsh overhead light or sunlight from hitting my subjects, and a 12” silver/gold reflector for bouncing light into shaded areas of a subject.

More Creativity.  One of the challenges as a macro photographer is working with depth of field. Because we are shooting very close to our subjects, the depth of field is very shallow causing lots of out of focus areas in our photos. The closer we get to the subject, the less that will be in focus. We can use this shallow depth of field to our advantage in creating artistic compositions. If you like soft focus dream like images, shoot in the lower f/stop range, and use this shallow depth of field to produce some beautiful artwork. If you have a subject that may have some interesting lines or textures that you may what to show off, you can set your f/stop in the highest numbers and bring everything into focus. So we have the ability to get everything in focus and also use the shallow depth of field to be more creative.

Your own personal art. Your own personal art is one of my favorite benefits. Every image that you view on my website is an original. They are subjects that were present for only a brief moment in time, until the environment erased them forever. None of the images that I have can be reproduced again because the subjects do not exists anymore. Mountains, rivers, lakes, are all there day after day and can be photographed over and over by many, many photographers, but my subjects have been eliminated by Mother Nature and are images that I can call my own originals.

Each year more and more nature photographers discover the benefits of macro.  Take some time and explore all the local parks and your own backyard and enjoy the fun of macro photography.

 
Thursday, May 28, 2026
By Mike Moats Photography

Many of my images I post are of subjects with everything in focus and sharp, and I always get people asking if the image was focus stacked.  

If you are shooting close-ups you will get everything in focus using the lenses highest f/stops. 

Why would you want to shoot a group of many images at different focus points throughout the subject, then have to download however number of images you shot into a program and have that program merge all the images together getting the whole subject in focus, when you can get the same results with one shot at f/32 (or if your lens stops at f/22) with one shot. 

And you are going to say, because you will get diffraction (a soft image) shooting at the highest f/stops.

Not a problem, you just have to sharpen the image in post processing.

If the background behind your subject is cluttered, position a printed background behind the subject and shoot as high an f/stop as you want.

Been working for me for 21 years since I started digital photography.

Not only do you have to deal with shooting all those images, if you are shooting outside you have to pray no wind moves your subject.

Total waste of time.

When would I use focus stacking?  If I was shooting in very high magnification (maybe 3:1 or higher) where the depth of field shrinks down to almost nothing.

But since I never shoot high magnification, I'll never have to worry about that.

This flower shot was one where I got tons of people asking if it was focus stacked.  Nope, shot at, f/32, 1/100sec, ISO800, very simple.

Sharpened in Smart Photo Editor

 

 

Save yourself some time learning flower photography by joining my Flower Photography Club online. Learn from the experts. FLOWER PHOTO CLUB - Mike Moats - Award Winning Macro Photographer

 
Tuesday, May 26, 2026
By Mike Moats Photography

I always talk about making sure to check out the backside of flower because sometimes you can find a cool image.

With this image I wanted to create a painted look so found filters in Smart Photo Editor and came up with this.

Here is the original out of the camera.

Save yourself some time learning flower photography by joining my Flower Photography Club online. Learn from the experts. FLOWER PHOTO CLUB - Mike Moats - Award Winning Macro Photographer